On To Kaikoura

After a somewhat restful sleep in the railway Waipara Sleeper Cars (a bit cold), we woke to homemade bread, roosters crowing, and cats purring (had to be there). Aftr breakfast, we loaded up our stuff in the Gatorwaka and headed to Kaikoura (Place of Crayfish).

At the Sleepers

Kaikooura was hit with a 7.8 magnitude earthquake in November of 2016 (see http://www.geonet.org.nz). This earthquake destroyed the roads and railroads to and from Kaikora, isolating the town. Residents and tourists had to be airlifted to Christchurch. It devastated this small, tourist town where folks from all over come to watch whales and enjoy this seaside town. It is still recovering from this earthquake but the town has shown resilience and as you will learn, we encountered roads still under repair in and around KaiKoura, but the city looks to be thriving.

Nice reflections

One purpose of our trip was to learn more about the Maori culture and to actually sleep in a marae (a meeting house) called Takahanga in Kaikoura. First we had to get there . . . . . so after driving a bit, we stopped in Cheviot for a much needed tea break. From Cheviot, we continued over some small foothills to the Kaikoura range and dropped into the seaside town.

We had lunch on the beach and then went north to take a hike at Ohau point. We discovered that there was a lot of construction on the road and we could not access the trail (unfortunately). We continued on to another beach, where we looked for smooth, limestone rocks. It was a sunny day and the ride was beautiful along the Kaikoura range where the mountains meet the sea.

looking for rocks!

On the way back, the students practice their waiata (song) that they would sing as part of the powhiri (or welcoming ceremony, see https://www.waikato.ac.nz/tekowhao/guidelines-for-powhiri). They chose Tom Petty’s song “I Won’t Back Down.” The whole idea (traditionally) was to assess whether visitors were friend or foe. Nowadays, it is performed to welcome visitors onto a marae and is done for political and community functions that occur in the marae. 

As manhuri (guests), we waited in the back of the marae, outside the grounds. We were called into the marae by an elder singing and we filed into the marae and sat opposite the iwi of that marae. A maori leader stood up and welcomed us and our ancestors, and then they sung a song. I stood up and introduced our group and then we stood up and sang the Tom Petty song (quite well I might add). We then presented a koha (gift), which consisted of jelly bellies (and later an artistic print of old Florida oranges), and then we did a hongi – or the pressing of noses. Each of us, in turn, pressed our noses up to our guests and for a brief moment, occupied their bubble and even took a small sniff to take in their essence. It is a beautiful ceremony and it ended with us eating with them (cookies and tea), afterwards, we were welcomed as family. We were provided mattresses and set up our beds in the actual marae that contained many beautiful carvings that told stories about their ancestors and the lands around them (we could not take pictures of these as they are sacred).

evening from the marae

We went out and had Thai for dinner (yum!) and then headed back to the marae. Caterpillar races ensued (imagine in sleeping bags and racing) and other games and chatting continued until one by one, we all went to sleep. I have to say (I am not sure if the other students experience this) but I rest really well in the marae and have vivd dreams. 

Thai food!

Tomorrow, some of the students will go whale watching and the others will take a walk on Kaikoura Spit and learn about Hutton’s Shearwater conservation. More tomorrow.  nighty night Dr. H